Layered, Personal, Bold: The New Way To Wear Heritage, Presented By Strauss & Co’s Uncovered Classics Jewellery Auction

12 Mar 2026

The fashion narrative of the upcoming Strauss & Co jewellery auction, Uncovered Classics, is less about looking back and more about styling forward. Divided into three sessions: Nostalgia, Nouveau and Timeless, the sale contains substantial gold suites and significant diamond brooches. It also offers a concentrated edit of wearable, trend-aligned pieces that speak directly to how jewellery is being worn now.

“We’re not selling dusty heirlooms,” says Kim Goeller, Jewellery Specialist at Strauss & Co. “We’re offering beautifully handmade pieces that have history and can be styled in a modern way for everyday wear – open necklines, layered chains, brooches worn unexpectedly.”

1. Insects and Symbolism

Insect motifs continue to gain momentum globally. In the Nouveau category, the spider jadeite pendant (estimate R15 000-30 000) pairs carved jadeite with a 0.50-carat cabochon opal at its centre. Scarabs and bee motifs in the sale draw on ancient symbolism while aligning with contemporary fashion’s fascination with bold, nature-driven design. Worn on a substantial gold chain, they read current more than historical.

“Insects are getting bigger and bolder,” says Goeller. “When you place one of these revival pieces on a heavy modern chain, it becomes completely contemporary.”

2. The Return of the Brooch

Brooches have re-emerged on red carpets and runways alike. The diamond bow brooch (estimate R40 000-60 000) and the Art Deco double clip diamond brooch (estimate R80 000-100 000) can be worn traditionally on a lapel – or split, stacked, or placed asymmetrically on eveningwear. The double clip’s transformable design lends itself to modern styling.

3. Pearl Reframed

Pearls remain central to current jewellery trends but are worn with intent. The diamond and pearl necklace (estimate R50 000-70 000) balances classic round pearls with diamond-set detailing, while other pearl pieces in the sale include brooches and bracelets that lend themselves to layering.

“Pearls are still having their day,” Goeller notes. “But it’s about how you wear them – layered with gold, mixed with enamel, paired with something unexpected.”

4. Gold is Forever

With gold prices elevated, Timeless chains have adornment and asset appeal. For example, the imperial gold chains (estimate R210 000-230 000) and the Italian choker and bracelet suite (estimate R360 000-400 000) offer structural anchors for layered pendants and charms.

Building on the global trend, collectors are enjoying the process of creating a look around a substantial gold chain, adding lockets and symbolic charms over time. Several locket bracelets and pendant options in the sale start at accessible prices, some as low as R4 000.

5. Asymmetry and Enamel

The Nouveau session highlights enamel work, organic forms and asymmetry. Moonstone, opal and other softer gemstones appear in playful, artistic settings. These expressive pieces sit comfortably within modern fashion’s embrace of individuality.

“There’s a move away from perfectly matched, highly commercial jewellery,” says Goeller. “People want something slightly off-centre, slightly unusual – something no one else can buy.”

Crucially, these are one-off pieces. Unlike contemporary retail jewellery produced in multiples, each lot in Uncovered Classics is singular. Once sold, it cannot be reordered.

The fashion positioning also aligns with sustainability. Acquiring existing, handcrafted jewellery extends its lifecycle and avoids new extraction. “Young clients are conscious of that,” Goeller adds. “Buying something with a past is a responsible choice – and a stylish one.”

Top Lots

Lot 1: Diamond bow brooch. Pavé-set in a delicate bow motif with 429 rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.15 carats, with milgrain edging and hinged mechanisms in the end ribbons with tube-set rose-cut diamond tassels, brooch pin and safety latch, platinum, length approximately 6cm, total weight 26.20 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R40 000-60 000

Lot 49: Art Deco diamond ring. In a geometric navette-shaped design, featuring 15 pavé-set round brilliant-cut and old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.55 carats, with milgrain detailing, mounted in 18k two-toned gold, size M, total weight 6.60 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R12 000-18 000

Lot 71: Diamond and pearl necklace. Designed with a paisley motif pendant and teardrop tassels, with 76 pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.73 carats, suspended from a chain of interlinking round pearls measuring approximately 6–6.5mm in diameter, with a pill-shaped box clasp, mounted in 18k yellow gold, length approximately 42cm, total weight 40.50 grams. Like new. Estimate: R50 000-70 000

Lot 44: Art Deco double clip diamond brooch. Featuring 126 claw- and pavé-set old European-cut and round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 12.00 carats, designed as two detachable clips that can be worn individually, joined by a removable pin fitting, mounted in 16k white gold and platinum, length approximately 5cm, total weight 29.00 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R80 000-100 000

Lot 27: Spider jadeite pendant. A claw-set oval cabochon-cut opal weighing approximately 0.50 carats, forming the spider’s abdomen, is a focus point on a granulated web, within a carved jadeite surround, suspended from a simple bail, mounted in 18k yellow gold, length approximately 4cm, total weight 11.20 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R15 000-30 000

Lot 24: Two imperial gold chains. Comprising two rolo-link chains with granulation detailing, one with a hook clasp and one with a lobster clasp, mounted in 18k yellow gold, each approximately 81cm in length, total combined weight 103.10 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R210 000-230 000

Lot 26: Italian choker necklace and bracelet. Choker necklace and matching bracelet, each formed of flat honeycomb-shaped links connected by ribbed rings, with box clasp and safety latch, mounted in 18k yellow gold, necklace length approximately 13cm, bracelet length approximately 20cm, total combined weight 171.70 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R360 000-400 000

Viewing for Uncovered Classics is available by appointment in Cape Town and Johannesburg ahead of the auction.

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March Auctions:

Following on this suite of early February online sales are two special themed auctions to look out for:

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Upcoming Exhibitions: