Origins & Legacy of Art Jewellery in South Africa
Timed Online Auction, 6 - 22 October 2025
Origins
About the SessionOrigins, explores the emergence of South African fine metal artistry through pioneering immigrant goldsmiths and jewellers such as Erich Frey, Peter Cullman, Margaret Richardson, Elsa Wongchowsky, Tessa Fleischer and Birger Haglund. Many were drawn to South Africa after the Second World War, seeking opportunities to establish workshops. Their training in European institutions, such as Pforzheim, equipped them with modernist principles and technical expertise. Their works embodied modernist aesthetics while adapting to local contexts. They experimented with form, texture, and materiality, linking jewellery to broader artistic movements.
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Tessa Fleischer initially pursued a career in the performing arts but transitioned to jewellery and silversmithing after her marriage to sculptor Michael Fleischer.
Under his tutelage, she learned metalworking and soon established herself as a jeweller exhibiting alongside other prominent South-African jewellery designers, such as Peter Cullman and Margaret Richardson. Fleischer and her contemporaries embraced the concept of jewellery as 'wearable art' rather than just adornment, a movement which paralleled global trends.
Fleischer predominantly used copper and silver, sometimes combined with agate or other semi-precious stones, blending metalwork techniques with bold, sculptural elements to create a signature style with a strong modernist aesthetic.
A particularly notable work is the crosier (staff of office) she crafted for Bishop Desmond Tutu's inauguration which combined tambotie wood and sterling silver.
