Origins & Legacy of Art Jewellery in South Africa

Timed Online Auction, 6 - 22 October 2025

Origins
About the Session

Origins, explores the emergence of South African fine metal artistry through pioneering immigrant goldsmiths and jewellers such as Erich Frey, Peter Cullman, Margaret Richardson, Elsa Wongchowsky, Tessa Fleischer and Birger Haglund.  Many were drawn to South Africa after the Second World War, seeking opportunities to establish workshops. Their training in European institutions, such as Pforzheim, equipped them with modernist principles and technical expertise.  Their works embodied modernist aesthetics while adapting to local contexts. They experimented with form, texture, and materiality, linking jewellery to broader artistic movements. 


Sold for

ZAR 5 406
Lot 43
  • Tessa Fleischer amethyst and silver neckpiece


Lot Estimate Change Currency
ZAR 5 000 - 7 000
Selling Price
Incl. Buyer's Premium & VAT
ZAR 5 406
Delivery
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Auction Catalogue

About this Item

South Africa 1934-
Tessa Fleischer amethyst and silver neckpiece
three tube-set round and oval cabochon-cut amethysts, with a geometric African-inspired pendant, on a wire choker, silver, stamped 'Tessa Fleischer', total weight 70.00 grams

Notes

Tessa Fleischer initially pursued a career in the performing arts but transitioned to jewellery and silversmithing after her marriage to sculptor Michael Fleischer.

Under his tutelage, she learned metalworking and soon established herself as a jeweller exhibiting alongside other prominent South-African jewellery designers, such as Peter Cullman and Margaret Richardson. Fleischer and her contemporaries embraced the concept of jewellery as 'wearable art' rather than just adornment, a movement which paralleled global trends.

Fleischer predominantly used copper and silver, sometimes combined with agate or other semi-precious stones, blending metalwork techniques with bold, sculptural elements to create a signature style with a strong modernist aesthetic.

A particularly notable work is the crosier (staff of office) she crafted for Bishop Desmond Tutu's inauguration which combined tambotie wood and sterling silver.

View all Tessa Fleischer lots for sale in this auction



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